SAINT SAVA TEMPLE: A SPIRITUAL BEACON OF ORTHODOXY IN SPLIT

The never-completed Saint Sava Temple in Split is both a testament to the difficult position of the Orthodox population in Dalmatia and a profound witness to their faith in God and hope to one day erect a magnificent temple in His honor. It stands as a vow to never give up, a reminder to never forget Orthodoxy and one's own identity.

In a city that once had a population of 20,000 Serbs, not many remain today. Those who have stayed do not forget their temple and frequently visit it. As the church tells us, more and more people are coming.

Nestled in the narrow urban core, the temple is reached through the old city streets. One wall bears the inscription "Entrance to Saint Sava Temple," and after passing through a narrow passage, you come upon a large space where the never-completed temple and its auxiliary rooms stand.

Unfortunately, many Serbs outside Croatia are unaware that there is a Saint Sava Temple in Split, which is a product and confirmation of the centuries-old Orthodoxy in Dalmatia.

The Temple in Split

The construction of Saint Sava Temple in Split began in 1939 after lengthy negotiations with the then-local authorities. Within two years, the walls of beautiful Brač stone were raised to a height of eight meters. Although the construction progressed quickly for that time, the outbreak of World War II cast a shadow over Europe.

The establishment of the Independent State of Croatia turned into a nightmare for the Orthodox, Serbian population. Construction on the temple was halted, and the first idea for its resumption emerged in 1960. However, the new communist authorities were not favorable towards religion either.

At that time, the Split Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments declared the complex of the abandoned Catholic monastery, on which the construction of Saint Sava Temple had begun, a cultural monument. This prohibited the demolition of old buildings. As a result, the Serbian church remained unfinished, confined in a cramped space with inadequate street access, like a hidden catacomb. Even city experts suggested demolishing the partially built temple to reduce its size.

Additionally, there was a dispute over the height of the temple. Authorities argued that it was unacceptable for Saint Sava Church to be taller than the surrounding buildings. Consequently, the Serbian Orthodox Church repeatedly sent its authorized architects to Split in the late 1980s to negotiate compromises regarding the temple's roof. However, no compromise was reached, as the other side only accepted that the Serbian church should be as inconspicuous as possible and resemble an Orthodox temple as little as possible.

Following the establishment of modern-day Croatia, the situation did not improve. The number of Serbs significantly decreased, and the constructed part of the temple began to overgrow. However, this did not extinguish the faith and liturgical life in Split.

Growing Attendance

Metropolitan Nikodim of Dalmatia has raised the issue of completing the temple multiple times. Although unsuccessfully, the idea of finishing the temple has not been abandoned. Next to the unfinished part of the temple are rooms where the priest resides, as well as a temporary church where liturgical life continues.

The temporary church boasts a beautiful iconostasis, with a magnificent icon of the Three-Handed Theotokos on the left and the icon of the Nursing Theotokos on the right. For Orthodox Christians in Split, this is their sole place of spiritual comfort and strength.

"Thank God, more and more people are attending. On Sundays, there are about 50 people at the Liturgy, and during major holidays, the space is too small to accommodate everyone. It's not just Serbs who come, but other Orthodox Christians as well. This temple is their spiritual home too," the church caretaker told Kompasinfo.

He briefly explained the temple's history and reiterated that the idea of completing the temple has not been abandoned.

"We are addressing this issue, but unfortunately, there is no progress. However, we do not despair. Liturgical life continues regularly, our priest is here, and we are happy to see more people at services. Our bishop often visits, especially on major holidays, which means a lot to us," he said.

Open-Air Prayer

Occasionally, the Holy Service is held in the unfinished temple under the open sky, especially during major holidays and significant events.

One such occasion was in 2022, when two great holy relics arrived in Split – copies of the Three-Handed Theotokos icon from Hilandar and the Nursing Theotokos icon from Saint Sava’s hermitage in Kareia.

"When there is an occasion and circumstances allow, services are held in the unfinished temple. There's no roof, but we hold prayers under the open sky. It's a special experience. We don't complain about the conditions; our duty is to pray and believe that the temple will be completed," said the believers we encountered.