GUIMARÃES – THE CITY WHERE PORTUGAL IS STILL BEING BORN

If there is a city that seems modest at first glance but reveals the full grandeur of its past upon closer look, it is the Portuguese city of Guimarães.

PHOTO: Anja Petrović

When people from the hilly Balkans think of Portugal, Lisbon and Porto usually come to mind, perhaps Madeira as the birthplace of Cristiano Ronaldo, and only the most devoted football fans recall Guimarães. Yet, beyond its famous football club Vitória SC, this city has so much more to offer.

Located in northern Portugal, just about half an hour’s drive from Porto, Guimarães is often called the “Cradle of the Nation.” This title is no coincidence: Afonso Henriques, later known as Dom Afonso I, the first king of Portugal, was born here. In the 12th century, he began the process of establishing an independent Portuguese state. It was in Guimarães, within hidden chapels and castles, that decisions were made and stories written that shaped the country’s identity. A single step into its historic center makes it clear why.

The streets are narrow, paved with large stones that seem to have preserved the traces of thousands of footsteps over the centuries. On small squares, flowers hang from windows, while elderly men play dominoes on terraces bathed in the morning sun.

A gentle uphill walk through shadowed façades that breathe old Europe leads to the silhouette dominating the city: the Guimarães Castle (Castelo de Guimarães). Its massive 10th-century stone walls rise toward the sky, solid and austere, as if still guarding the identity of Portugal.

Just a few steps away stands the Chapel of São Miguel, a small stone structure with simple doors. Inside, the dim light reveals a stone believed to have been touched by King Afonso Henriques during his baptism. Locals will tell you, “This is where everything begins,” and at that moment, time truly seems to stand still.

A completely different energy radiates from the Paço dos Duques de Bragança, a 15th-century palace built for Duke Afonso of Bragança. Combining Gothic and Renaissance styles, its massive walls, tall chimneys, towers, and arcaded courtyards give the impression of a powerful fortress, while the interior—featuring wooden ceilings resembling inverted ship hulls, tapestries, and weapons—testifies to the luxury and power of the Bragança family. Today, the palace is a key historical attraction and also the official secondary residence of the President of Portugal.

Above Guimarães rises Monte da Penha, one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks and an important tourist and religious destination. At its summit stands the Santuário da Penha, a renowned sanctuary attracting visitors year-round. Penha can be reached on foot, by car, or by cable car, which connects the city center to the hilltop and offers panoramic views. Known for its viewpoints, landscaped parks, forest trails, and distinctive granite formations, Monte da Penha is considered one of the symbols of Guimarães.

During our visit to the “Cradle of Portugal,” we also explored two museums. The Centro Internacional das Artes José de Guimarães (CIAJG) is a contemporary art center dedicated to the work of José de Guimarães and international modern art, renowned for exhibitions linking contemporary creativity with archaic and non-European cultures. The Museu da Cidade presents the city’s development through centuries via multimedia displays. Guimarães’ vibrant cultural life can also be felt at Teatro Jordão, a venue for theater performances, concerts, and local events, where tradition meets modern artistic expression.

As mentioned earlier, Guimarães is also a city where football holds a special place. Vitória SC brings together generations of fans and often stands at the center of social life, demonstrating how sport and local identity go hand in hand.

Gastronomy and local wines further enrich the visitor experience.

Northern Portuguese specialties are a must-try: various codfish dishes, beef prepared in countless ways, and traditional sweets such as tortas de Guimarães. Vinho Verde—light and refreshing—perfectly complements the local cuisine and adds authenticity to every meal.

Our hosts, the Guimarães Tourism Board, provided us with an unforgettable experience: a visit to the small village of Caldas das Taipas and the Quinta da Cancela winery, where we were welcomed by Arthur Faria Carvalho, the owner and heir to an estate that has been producing outstanding wine since 1720, across six generations. With each course of carefully prepared local specialties, we tasted a new wine—making it difficult to decide which was better. The experience was completed by the authentic ambiance, preserved for more than 300 years since the estate was built. Special thanks go to Catarina and Paolo from the Guimarães Tourism Board, who guided us throughout this memorable journey.

The heart of Guimarães lies in its streets, hills, history, architecture, and the energy of its local community—in a unique blend of tradition, art, and everyday life.

Guimarães does not win you over all at once, but quietly and completely. And when you leave, you realize you remember it not just as a destination, but as a feeling: warmth, history, natural beauty, and a rare sense of calm found only in places that have known who they are for more than a thousand years. A warm recommendation, therefore: if you ever get the chance—by accident or by design—visit Guimarães, and expect to fall in love forever.

Bonus tip: In Guimarães, it is best not to mention neighboring Braga. Even the city museum displays a sign reading: “Neither a good wind nor a good marriage comes from Braga. Guimarães and Braga: rivals for centuries.”