JOURNEY THROUGH EASTERN HERZEGOVINA'S CHEESE AND HONEY TRAILS

Eastern Herzegovina's Cheese and Honey Trails offer a voyage into the gastronomic enchantment crafted by the industrious and noble highlanders of the region. Herzegovina, a land seamlessly blending the knowledge, craftsmanship, and generosity of its inhabitants with the rugged climate and often scarce land resources, produces delicacies that are a must-try in one's lifetime.

While not the only, cheese and honey undoubtedly stand as the finest products of Eastern Herzegovina. Travelling from the lowlands of Trebinje through Ljubinje, Berkovići, Bileća, to the highlands of Gacko, Kalinovik, and Nevesinje, one encounters hosts whose lives are intricately intertwined with nature in a tale of struggle and love.

This struggle, coupled with immense love, has transmitted through centuries the knowledge that birthed some of the world's unique products, such as the cheese made in a skin bag. The tradition of making cheese in skin bags dates back to the 14th century in Herzegovina, emerging from the human need to preserve food for extended periods.

Cheese in skin bags is crafted from fresh cow, sheep, or goat milk, or their blend. Immediately after milking, the milk is curdled, forming large cheese curds that are pressed under natural stone weight for around 24 hours. These curds are then broken, salted, and placed in a smoked sheepskin bag. The cheese is tightly packed into the skin bag with a wooden pounder or by hand, and the opening through which the cheese was inserted into the bag is tied with a rope. The filled bag is placed on wooden boards for aging.

The skill of making skin bags has been preserved for centuries, considered perhaps the oldest attempt at preserving dairy products for an extended period. Skin bags are made from complete sheepskin, sheared of wool, washed, openings tied, inflated, and hung over smoke for drying for several days. Once dried, the skin bags are washed and ready for cheese placement.

It's a demanding job, characteristic of regions with challenging living conditions. Yet, it's a craft revered by people who, precisely because of the harsh life, value all noble and worthy individuals beyond their own region.

Another gastronomic jewel from Herzegovina is cheese cream in a skin bag. It is made from boiled cow or sheep milk, poured into wooden vessels called "škipe," where it sits for at least 24 hours. Afterward, the crust is removed and stacked in a barrel to drain for about ten days, then transferred to a prepared skin bag where it matures for around two months.

Cheese cream in a skin bag absorbs the flavors of the skin bag and Herzegovinian mountain pastures, characteristic for their rich biodiversity of mountain grasses. Cheese cream in a skin bag, paired with roasted potatoes called "pole," is a culinary delight not to be missed in Herzegovina.

Honey from Herzegovina is the most sought-after honey in Bosnia and Herzegovina, as well as beyond its borders. Why? Because the Herzegovinian sun coaxes the most diverse flowers and herbs to grow on its rocky soil. Therefore, one must not miss trying Herzegovinian honey in their lifetime, especially those from sage, heather, or thyme, plants that hold a special power and aroma in Herzegovina.

Source: Slow Food