BORIS LEFT AUSTRIA TO WELCOME TOURISTS ON HIS ANCESTRAL LAND

Thirteen kilometres from Kozarska Dubica, beyond Komlenac and along a road that is more gravel than asphalt, lies the village of Tuključani. It is here that 45-year-old Boris Jovičić has decided to build his future by developing rural tourism and making a living from the land of his ancestors.

PHOTO: Nezavisne novine

Born in Rijeka, Jovičić spent many years working in Bregenz, Austria. Five years ago, however, he returned to his father's homeland in the nearby village of Murati.

"I have always wanted to be involved in rural tourism. I bought four dunums of land in Tuključani, and an opportunity presented itself here. I decided to follow my ideas," Jovičić says, determined to pursue his vision despite the narrow and challenging roads, the small number of residents and the fact that the village is rapidly losing population.

According to the 2013 census, Tuključani had 90 residents, while back in 1948, census officials recorded 327 inhabitants.

"I was the first one to come back to this village," Jovičić says, showing visitors his wooden houses, shelters, flower garden and the Hajdukovac stream, whose gently flowing water turns a small wheel and sprays water into the air. Nearby stands an old storage building filled with agricultural tools and household objects once commonly used in homes throughout Knešpolje and Potkozarje.

"My motivation was the desire for professional independence and the opportunity to do a job I know and love, while making my own decisions about myself and my small business. The property I bought was completely neglected and abandoned, and the small house was in ruins, but I did not give up. I have my own water, electricity and food. Now everything behind this wooden gate is completely different from what it was before," Boris says.

A RURAL MUSEUM AND A TRADITIONAL KITCHEN

A trained waiter, Jovičić now puts to use the experience he gained abroad in his beautifully arranged ethno-village. He serves his guests traditional homemade food, with fish, uštipci, kajmak and cheese among the specialties.

When asked who his most frequent guests are, he answers without hesitation:

"Foreigners."

He mentions visitors from the Czech Republic, Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium, as well as guests from the island of Curaçao in the southern Caribbean, near Venezuela, more than 4,000 kilometres away.

The messages left by his visitors, written on the wooden beams and pillars of a large shelter, bear witness to the international appeal of this remote destination.

"Even after travelling such a long way in search of new and unexplored parts of Europe, they sometimes get lost in the forest, at the end of the road. Even Google cannot find me. It directs travellers to Roman, Turkish and Austrian roads that disappeared long ago. So I put up my own signs at many locations and every crossroads. That solved the problem," Jovičić says with a mixture of hospitality and entrepreneurial determination.

His property also features a small rural museum, reflecting his passion for collecting and preserving objects from the past.

"I have always been a collector by nature. Here you can find my grandmother Ljuba's cupboard, old belongings of my aunt Mira, an old radio, blankets and rugs, agricultural tools, watering cans, funnels, whetstones, scythes, pitchforks, old stoves, carriages, barrels and vats, trowels and concrete rulers. There is a story behind every object. But we will talk about that another time – I have other things to do now," he says with a smile.

"I AM LIVING MY OWN STORY"

The conversation eventually returns to the issue that was mentioned at the very beginning – the road leading to Tuključani.

"The roads used to be even worse, with many potholes. Now they have been covered with gravel and things are much better. It is easier to travel. Anyone who really wants to come will find a way, even through fields and forests if the road is impassable. That never discouraged me," Jovičić says.

"I was the first person in the village to start a business. For half a century, people were leaving this place, and I was the first one to come back. I rent out cabins, accommodate campers and prepare food. I am living my own story. I am not interested in what other people think about it. I know how much I can do, and I know what I want."

A VILLAGE RICH IN BIRDLIFE AND WATER

Tuključane is surrounded by the villages of Johova, Čelebinci, Jasenje, Mrazovci, Suvaja, Brekinja, Pobrđani and Komlenac. The area is distinctly hilly and rich in sources of drinking water, numerous streams and the Tuklešnica River.

Historical records suggest that the village was settled in the 18th century by people who came from the Manjača region. The most common surnames in the area include Puzigaća, Kos, Kondić, Novaković, Pralica, Rauš and Marjanović.

The wider region is also known for its rich birdlife. Hawks, ravens, sparrows, tits, swallows, jays and blackbirds are among the most common species, and some local family names are believed to have originated from the names of birds.

In a village that has witnessed decades of depopulation, Boris Jovičić has chosen a different path. Instead of leaving, he returned. Instead of accepting decline, he began rebuilding. And behind a wooden gate at the end of a little-known road, he is creating a place where visitors from across Europe and even distant parts of the world can discover the rural landscapes, traditions and hospitality of Potkozarje.