TRAPIST: FROM DELIBAŠINO SELO TO ROYAL COURTS

As the peaceful streets of Banja Luka slumbered under a blanket of morning fog, the arrival of milk carts from Delibašino Selo marked the beginning of the day. Along the path leading to Ferhadija, each dawn brought the freshness of milk, and the Trapist cheese produced in Delibašino Selo became one of the symbols of the city on the Vrbas River.

On large wooden carts, sometimes seeming as though they might collapse under the weight of the load, the milk brought into the city was not just an ordinary drink. It carried within it a story of community, tradition, and constant care. In the late 19th century, as these milk carts slowly arrived, the people of Banja Luka would step onto the cobblestones, gather together, and, with the clatter of horses' hooves, welcome the milk. The carts stopped in front of Ferhadija, and the older generations knew well that the arrival of milk was more than just a morning routine and purchase. It was a ritual without which daily life in Banja Luka was unimaginable. People would gather, talk, buy milk, and hear the latest news from the town—who was out carousing, who had left, which store had new goods, and so on. No, it was much more than just a morning routine.

Once the milk was delivered and the last large cans disappeared from the city, the scent of freshness lingered in the air. This smell was later remembered with nostalgia by the people of Banja Luka, recalling a time when the clatter of hooves announcing the arrival of milk carts symbolized hope. However, this milk was known for its affordable price, as it was the cheapest in the entire country. This milk came from Delibašino Selo, where the Trappists in the Marija Zvijezda Monastery used it to make cheese. Although the Trappists at Marija Zvijezda also brewed beer, cheese was more popular at that time.

This story takes us back to 1872 when Abbot Franz Pfanner laid the foundations for the production of the famous beer and cheese that we still talk about, eat, and drink today, which have become a recognizable brand of Banja Luka.

The story begins in a small cheese factory at the Marija Zvijezda Monastery, where Father Franz Pfanner, along with his Trappists, produced cheese called "Swiss cheese." However, despite acquiring good quality cows, they faced a setback. An outbreak of livestock disease led to a crisis and a halt in production. But that was not the end of the story.

Ten years later, in 1882, Abbot Ignatius arrived in Delibašino Selo from the French Port-du-Salut Monastery. He brought with him the knowledge of cheese-making and revived the Trappists' passion for production. Under his guidance, cheese production resumed in Banja Luka, now under a new name: Trapist Marija Zvijezda. As the story goes, Trapist cheese was made in many monasteries across Europe where Trappists resided, but it always carried the name of the monastery where it was produced.

Under the flickering light of lamps in the small cheese factory, the famous Trapist cheese was created with much effort and dedication. The secrecy of the process was the key to its success. The monastery guarded its secrets, and only ten trained specialists were entrusted with one step each in the production process. Each cheesemaker was responsible for only one part, while the other steps remained hidden. The cheese emerged from this mysterious creation with a smooth, yellowish rind and a texture that was soft and elastic. Its aroma was pure, with a distinctive milky scent, and its taste was sweet with a moderate saltiness.

Trapist cheese from Marija Zvijezda was not just a local delicacy; it was shipped far beyond the borders of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Those who had the opportunity to taste this cheese knew they were enjoying a product from the city on the Vrbas.

Born in Delibašino Selo, in the Marija Zvijezda Monastery, in what is today the Trapisti neighborhood, the cheese was named after the Trappist monks who purchased and settled this land in the late 19th century when Banja Luka was still part of the Ottoman Empire. It was then that six Trappist monks, led by Father Franz Pfanner, arrived in Bosnia, a land that was always boiling like a cauldron. Pfanner, who did much for the city on the Vrbas but is likely unknown to most of today's residents, is someone we can thank for the Trapist cheese and brewery in our city.

Life within the monastery was a haven of peace and industry. While the Trappists engaged in the art of brewing beer, another corner of the monastery was dedicated to cheese-making. Every cheese was made with the same care and dedication.

In this corner of the world, where nature dictated the pace of life in the late 19th century, cheese was created not just as a food product, but as a work of dedication, skill, and patience. As the fog gently rolled over the hills, the Trappists carefully prepared the milk, using methods passed down through generations, rooted in ancient traditions. In the quiet rhythm of their hands, the golden mass was crafted into cheese, a specialty recognized not only within the monastery walls but far beyond.

Trapist was even served at the table of the Yugoslav king, and the Trappists began supplying the royal court with Trapist cheese. However, when the communist authorities came to power, the Marija Zvijezda Monastery was stripped of its ownership, and without cows and milk, there was no cheese.

Trapist cheese from Marija Zvijezda had a reputation that extended far beyond the borders of Banja Luka. It was a time when flavors from the small monastery spread throughout the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the cheese gained recognition across Europe. Every bite of Trapist cheese told a story of patience, skill, and dedication, connecting the small monastery in Banja Luka with the wider world.

The first steps in cheese production began on a small farm within the monastery walls, and soon the German colonies, today's Aleksandrovac and Nova Topola, became the main centers for cheese production.

At first, the Trappists processed milk from their own estate, but they also purchased milk from local farmers. The people of Banja Luka brought in the rich yield of their cows daily, delivering two to three thousand liters of milk, which, after careful processing, was turned into cheese and butter. According to records from 1930, the amount of milk delivered reached an impressive seven to eight thousand liters. In Delibašino Selo, there was an auxiliary cheese factory that worked diligently to process the surplus milk. Every day, carts with large cans headed to Banja Luka, delivering milk known for its affordability. When cheese production became successful and demand increased, the Trappists built a cheese factory in Aleksandrovac in 1887 and another in Nova Topola in 1893.

However, a problem arose—they lacked skilled people for making Trapist cheese. As a result, the new cheese factory in Aleksandrovac faced issues with the taste and quality of the cheese. In 1888, Brother Dositej was sent to France, where he spent a year in various monasteries, especially the Port-du-Salut Monastery, learning the art of cheese-making. Upon his return, he continued to teach his fellow monks. The quality of this cheese and the skill in its production rested on the meticulousness of its creation.

In Delibašino Selo, nestled in nature's embrace, the magic of cheese-making was created, surpassing time and space with its quality, leaving an indelible mark in history.

And so, in the memories of older Banja Luka residents, the recollection of a time when milk carts from Delibašino Selo traveled to Ferhadija was preserved. Every arrival was a reminder of the simple joys of life. Nostalgic memories of that era, of the smell of fresh milk and the sound of horses' hooves, can only be glimpsed in black-and-white photographs that remind us of the small wonders in everyday life and the unity and diligence of people who gave us so much.

Unfortunately, by the end of the 20th century, cheese production had almost completely disappeared. However, in late 2008, the Banja Luka Trappists decided to revive this tradition. Using the original recipe, they once again began producing cheese faithful to its past glory. We may not know how similar the Trapist cheese we eat today is to the old masters' recipe, but it is important to know who started its production and that it originated in today's Banja Luka neighborhood of Trapisti.