WHOSE CICVARA IS IT?

But in Mladikovine, near Teslić, they say: “These are just myths—the true cicvara is made on the southeastern slopes of Mount Borja and in the valleys of the Uzvinska, Marica, and Želeća rivers, which feed into the Velika Usora.”

Locals say cicvara has been made here for centuries. Long ago, only the wealthy could afford it, as true cicvara requires large quantities of milk. Simeuna Đurić from Mladikovine explains that they don’t use kajmak (clotted cream) for cicvara, but rather homemade cream skimmed from fresh, unboiled milk.

“Pure, unboiled milk is left out overnight, and then the cream is skimmed off, day after day, until there’s enough to make cicvara for the whole household,” Simeuna shared with SeeSrpska.

She also uses carefully sourced cornmeal, milled in nearby water mills. “Once the cream begins to boil, I add the cornmeal gradually by hand, stirring until it starts to separate from the pot and release its oils. When the cream is good, it doesn’t take long for the oils to separate. I’ve never made it with store-bought cream, but I imagine it would take much longer. I only use local cream because the milk here is of high quality—the cows graze regularly on lush pastures and drink pure spring water. Our pastures are clearings surrounded by forest and streams,” explains Simeuna.

Ċicvara is a must for Christmas in Mladikovine, and every family member has to “see themselves” in it (a reflection ritual). It’s also a tradition here to make it for Pentecost.